Keshi Pearls
Keshi pearls are formed without a nucleus, emerging as a natural by-product of the pearl cultivation process. Because no central bead is introduced, each pearl is composed entirely of nacre, the iridescent substance responsible for a pearl's lustre. This also means no two keshi pearls are the same in shape or structure.
Their formation is entirely natural and impossible to predict. They develop their own silhouette during the cultivation process, resulting in irregular, sculptural forms. Their lustre is often exceptional because the entire pearl is pure nacre throughout.
At A.G, keshi pearls are frequently selected for bespoke pieces where organic form and individuality are central to the design.
Features
- Composed entirely of nacre, resulting in strong lustre.
- Each pearl has a unique, naturally formed structure.
- Organic, sculptural quality suited to bespoke and contemporary design.
- Works well alongside both diamonds and coloured gemstones.
Considerations
- Softer than crystalline gemstones and requires careful wear.
- Sensitive to chemicals, moisture changes, and surface abrasion.
- Irregular shapes won't suit every design preference.
Baroque Pearls
Baroque pearls are cultured pearls that have formed in a non-spherical shape. Unlike round pearls, which are produced when a cultivated pearl grows symmetrically around a central nucleus, baroque pearls develop with an irregular outline as the nacre layers build unevenly over time. The result is a pearl with a distinctive, organic form that varies significantly between individual stones.
The shapes range from gently off-round through to deeply asymmetrical, elongated, or freeform. No two baroque pearls are the same. Their surface can carry a high lustre and strong orient, the iridescent sheen that shifts across the surface of nacre-rich pearls, which makes them visually interesting from different angles and in different lighting.
At A.G, baroque pearls are used in bespoke pieces where the form of the pearl itself contributes to the overall design rather than simply sitting as a uniform element within it. They work particularly well in pendant, earring, and statement ring designs.
Features
- Each pearl is unique in shape and surface character.
- High nacre content produces strong lustre and orient.
- Versatile across a wide range of design briefs.
- Generally more accessible in price than round pearls of comparable size and lustre.
Considerations
- Irregular forms require considered setting and design to show well.
- Quality varies significantly, particularly in surface lustre and nacre thickness.
- Not suited to designs that require uniformity or symmetry between matched stones.
Round Pearls
Round pearls are the most recognised and traditionally valued form of cultured pearl. They're produced when nacre layers build evenly around a central nucleus during the cultivation process, resulting in a symmetrical, spherical shape. Achieving true roundness requires ideal conditions throughout cultivation, which is why perfectly round pearls remain less common than other pearl types.
The most widely known varieties are Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls, each cultivated in different regions and producing distinct differences in size, colour, and surface quality.
Akoya pearls, primarily cultivated in Japan, are the classic white pearl. They're typically smaller in size, ranging from around 6mm to 9mm, and are known for their sharp, mirror-like lustre. They're the most commonly used pearl in fine jewellery and are well suited to necklaces, earrings, and rings where a clean, consistent appearance is important.
South Sea pearls are cultivated in the warm waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. They're significantly larger than Akoya pearls, typically ranging from 9mm to 20mm, and are available in white, silver, and gold tones. Their lustre tends to be softer and more satiny than Akoya, with a surface quality that reflects light more gently.
Tahitian pearls are cultivated in French Polynesia and are the only pearls that occur naturally in dark tones. Their colour range includes black, grey, green, and peacock, a colour that shifts between green and purple depending on the light. They're typically 8mm to 16mm and carry a strong orient that makes them particularly suited to bespoke design.
Features
- High lustre and consistent appearance across matched sets.
- Available across a wide range of sizes, colours, and price points depending on variety.
- Well suited to both classic and contemporary designs.
- Strong long-term value, particularly for South Sea and Tahitian varieties.
Considerations
- True round pearls command a premium over near-round or baroque equivalents.
- Surface quality varies and should be assessed carefully, particularly in lower price ranges.
- Require the same careful handling as all pearl types: keep away from chemicals, perfume, and prolonged moisture exposure.
